In these times of pandemic and isolation, especially while being here Down Under so far away from our families, all of us expats are feeling much more homesick than usual. I have therefore felt the need to dedicate a post to a wine, Prosecco, which speaks so loud and clear of my hometown, Vittorio Veneto, and the area of the Prealpi Trevigiane where I come from. So please, teetotal readers out there, don’t take this blog entry as a personal attack at you, at all! The title refers to a rather a common joke that people in my region often use, and it is quite telling of how our culture is closely tied in with the world of grapevine and winemaking. Personally, I think it is absolutely fine if people choose not, or are otherwise unable, to consume alcohol – it leaves more wine to those of us who can drink it 😛 Jokes aside, please don’t get upset…like, for real, don’t.
For full disclaimer, and also to promote my locals a bit, I gathered the content of this post from several online sources from all over the world, but, in particular, I wish to mention the official webpage of Prosecco Conegliano e Valdobbiadene DOCG (https://www.prosecco.it/en/) and the Consortium for Prosecco DOC (https://www.prosecco.wine/).
For those of you who are not too familiar with the world of wines, it might be helpful to know that a grape variety and the wine that comes from it don’t necessarily share the same name. This is especially true in Europe, where a wine is often named after the region where it is produced, rather than the grape it comes from, or it is named after the grape, but the region that shares the same name of the grape is not the area where the grape or wine is actually found. Why, you ask? Well, because we are Europeans and we like to complicate things – you are so very welcome 🙂
The terms used in the European wine industry are all regulated by specific appellations, or geographical denomination of origins, which are legally defined and binding policies. These regulations officially determine what a given area must grow, in what yield, what techniques are allowed, and what winemaking styles are expected to be found in the area. To use an oversimplified example, a wine coming from the Chardonnay grape in New Zealand will be labelled ‘Chardonnay’, but in France, you will not (or at least should not!) be able to go to a wine shop and find a bottle labelled ‘Chardonnay’. Rather, terms such as ‘Chablis’, ‘Puligny Montrachet’, ‘Beaune’, ‘Bourgogne’ can all refer to a Chardonnay-grape wine, even though the grape variety is not explicitly mentioned. That individual appellation will already tell the informed consumer where the wine was produced, and this in itself is enough to indicate which grape varieties were used, and which winemaking style they should be expecting. In its highly complex and peculiar nature, this appellation system ensures that there is no confusion at all around what you are about to drink – at least ideally…and if you know your wine geography well, that is.
Similarly, in Italy, the wine Montepulciano comes from the grape Montepulciano, and its appellation belongs to the region of Abruzzo, while the town of Montepulciano is actually located in Tuscany. There, wine enthusiasts can appreciate a red blend called ‘Vino Nobile di Montepulciano’ (Noble Wine of Montepulciano), whose main grape variety is actually Sangiovese (used also in the famous Chianti), with no trace of Montepulciano grape at all. Again, you are all very welcome 😛
At this point, it will not come as a surprise that the wine called Prosecco is made from a grape variety called Glera, and the appellation of Prosecco that my hometown belongs to (Conegliano e Valdobbiadene DOCG) is in the Veneto region, while the town of Prosecco is 150 km East, in the neighbouring region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. So, you will ask, what is the deal with this chaos of names where nothing is what it seems at first? And, most importantly, why are you stressing us out so much about wine this, and wine that? Because I can, obviously, and this is also my blog 🙂 Nah, just kidding – but let me tell you that there is a reason why people in my region often say “no sta fidarte degli astemi”, that is, never trust a teetotal.
The North-East of Italy can claim traces of notable winemaking since the Roman times. In particular, we can find praises to the quality of the wine in the region as far back as in Pliny the Elder (I century CE). For the area of the Prosecco DOCG, in particular, we can refer to the poet and bishop of Poitiers Venantius Fortunatus (VI century CE) who was actually born in the area. His home region, he says, is “the place where the grape vine flourishes on the foothills of the mountains, where the luscious vegetation covers the drier quarries”.
Quo Vineta Vernatur, Sub Monte Jugo Calvo, Quo Viror Umbrosus Tegit Sicca Metalla
Venantius Fortunatus
You might have noticed that no specific wine or grape varieties were mentioned, it was more a matter of identifying the area of the Prealpi with grapevines as a key landscape feature. Indeed, it seems that the ancestor of the wine that we know as Prosecco today was only explicitly recorded much later on. In particular, the first two known mentions of this wine occurred, coincidentally, twenty years apart from one another on the second half of the XVI century. One was a local source describing a celebration occurred in Conegliano, when the local wine was used in large amounts. The other one came from an English traveller, Fynes Moryson, who related the local Prosecho to the same wine commended by Pliny.
The first time the wine was called in its current form, Prosecco, seems to have occurred almost two hundred years later, when the priest and poet Aureliano Acanti celebrated the ‘melaromatico Prosecco‘ in 1754. To look more specifically at my hometown area, though, the intellectual and wine connoisseur Francesco Maria Malvolti first related the production of Prosecco with Conegliano in 1772. Coincidentally, Carpené Malvolti is still one of the most famous wineries in Conegliano to this very day.
Prosecco became the elegant sparkling white wine we know today towards the end of the 1800s/early 1900s, when new technologies allowed a refinement of the winemaking techniques. So it is not a coincidence that, in 1876, the first Oenological School in Italy was established right in Conegliano. The Istituto Superiore Cerletti has since been a state-of-the-art education provider in the areas of viticulture and winemaking at both secondary and tertiary level. This also happens to be the school where my brother studied, and, as you know, I am a super proud sister of a very smart and talented fella (who also took most of these cool photos I’m sharing), so yeah, just leaving this out there – with another photo, of course 🙂
The area of Vittorio Veneto/Conegliano/Valdobbiadene has therefore a deep historical and cultural connection with grapevines and winemaking, especially when it comes to Prosecco. This is so much so that, in 2019, the Hills of Prosecco of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene became a UNESCO World Heritage Site – not a minor form of acknowledgment, for sure. A local influencer, Canal – Il Canal, even made a video for the 2019 harvesting season, where he dubbed and performed a very famous song out in the vineyards to celebrate this great recognition, as well as the pride we take in our wine. Even the President of the Veneto Region Luca Zaia, who was born in Conegliano, has a small cameo in the video – you can spot him at the beginning in two different scenes https://youtu.be/RoMpSArpqsk.
In case you are wondering, yes, now I do have a giant smile on my face; yes, I may still be dancing and singing along; and yes, I am definitely daydreaming about being home drinking a glass of Prosecco. I mean, we even have vending machines for that…no wonder we don’t trust people who don’t like wine.
Salute!